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I figured I’d dump everything in a single issue here, but if you would prefer another fourm let me know. To begin with, this is an awesome project, I’m a fan of your work.
I’m looking to make a couple of these but would like to lay out my own PCB – it’s something I enjoy doing.
The second, unpopulated DB23 is for daisy-chaining? Or not, as the pullups on the diskdrive signals interfere? The idea being to plug an external diskdrive onto the end in future, or an SD device mb? I’m presuming plugging in a second PaulaNet isn’t going to do much 😊
Would using 2N7002K MOSFETs for level shifting be ok? They have about half the effective resistance max but are otherwise higher rated. They also seem to be cheaper and more easily available. Or how about an IC such as the TXS0108E... as that wouldn't require the pullups?
What is the value of D1 Zener diode (I’d assume anything over about 10v would be fine as it’s just blocking any potential external power from the Pico?)
If you have schematics in a project format I’d take them, but also happy to redraw in EasyEDA. I’ll share the result in here too, if that’s ok 😊
And, lastly, would it be worth combining this PCB with the Paula Audio one? Or for other ideas? So you could reprogram the Pico and have different functions? I presume the level shifters for the PaulaNet cover the Paula Audio spots, but have not checked, then i could just add the DACs?
explanation for the diode:
If you plan on have dual power supplies, usb and floppy port in this case, you can join them with two diodes. The USB diode is already on the pico/pico 2 so it makes sense that you also place one in the path of the power from the Amiga so no back feed can happen.
OMG i'm an idiot. You just build the hardware, flash the pico and load WB3.1 and it shows up as the Paulanet "disk" on the workbench screen, which you can just open. Oops! And thank you :)
My redesigned PCB/enclosure seems to work fine with Roadshow. Not at first tho - i put the PaulaNET.device file into devs/networks, and altered my plipbox config in dev/netinterfaces, renamed to paulanet and pointing to PaulaNET.device, but addnetinterface paulanet failed, reporting an input/output error. TBH i'm not sure if i went back and put capitals in the right places, or if using amitestkit and running every drive test on paulanet as DF1 helped (it's set as write protected, nice touch!) but after that the addnetinterface command worked. Must have blown the dust off the level-shifters, lol.
My god this thing is fast! It's immediately like 10x faster than my plipbox. Would love to see an OS1.3 device file, though i haven't tested the present one with thewire1.3 TCP/IP stack yet. Any objection to my requesting Stumpi look into that, if needed?
My PCB design also works fine with DF2 plugged into it's passthrough port, with or without external power, where the original doesn't do that, from the look of it :) Happy to share my files, of course, if anyone is interested.
EDIT: i have added the v2 archive, which has updated gerber files for the PCB layout, removing the ground plane from the main PCB in the keepout area around the Pico 2 W's wifi module. This may help get slightly faster speeds. Other files in the archive are unchanged.
Files in the archive are:
alt PCB gerbers
step 3D files to print the case or modify
PDF schematic
EasyEDA project files for the schematic to adjust if desired
BoM
There are a few build notes on the schematic:
R32 and R33 may not be needed, in which case bridge those points. One of my external drives has 90R resistors on the WRITE and WRITEGGATE lines before it passes them through. I have simply bridged these points.
S1 switch may be bridged as well if desired. It turns only the Pico 2 W on and off, not anything plugged into the back of paulanet. I canot remember where i bought these, but if anyone finds ones like the pic below on aliexpress let me know.
USB-A female port and 22u 0805 capacitor not shown on this schematic. Optional, to take off power for other peripherals if desired. To use, wire 5V from DB23-male pin 12 to USB5 pad, and GND to one of the support legs of the USB socket.
IMPORTANT: before soldering, trim legs of S1 and USB-A port so the underside remains flat - otherwise you can't solder the Pico 2 W! Must shield exposed points with Kapton tape before soldering the Pico 2 W as well.
It's a very good idea to take a look at all the files and work out how you are going to build first. I like fitting bits together into the smallest package i can, but if you do things in the wrong order you will get into trouble.
My design is not set up to be built by a PCB house, sadly. You will need to solder everything yourself, i fear.
Yes, you can go without the parts you list, except the Zener diode. That one's part of Rob's design, and will stop any feedback from the Pico's 5V rail to the Amiga. TBH you don't need a Zener, i used an MBR230 in SOD123 package. And "U22" is actually a 22uF 0805 capacitor, but it can be ignored without the USB socket.
You will need to bridge pins 1 and 2 of the missing S1 switch tho, or no power. But the rest can simply be left off. And I would still advise kapton taping the exposed copper points before soldering the Pico 2 W on. If you are adjusting the design for single-ended, you would gain even more space.
I did find the fit between the DB23 pins quite tight, and you don't want to damage the traces under there. I slotted the other edge of the board between the relevant pins, and levered them apart slightly. Most PCB houses deliver several boards, so you could use an extra one to do that, and solder to a fresh one. Or just order the boards at 1.2mm thick, rather than 1.6mm.
@butterrsoft
Many thanks for your feedback and the valuable clues!
I'm working on preparing the gerber files & BOM for JLCPCB...
I'm looking forward to place an order!
PaulaNet has really nice features over the PlipBox.
It uses DMA and it's powered by the Amiga!
Love it!
Were you successful with thewire1.3?
I'd like to use it with my A500...
The micro USB of the PiPico is only used to flash the firmware?
So it's not necessary to expose the receptacle to the outside of the casing? I'm thinking of a one piece casing, where the PCB would slide in...
If you are going to use a 1-piece case with my redesign, be aware the micro-usb port of the Pico 2 W sits slightly proud of the main PCB, as it does of it's own PCB. The complete PCB has to be slid sideways into the case at an angle, to feed the micro-usb into the hole in the side of the case. Your PCB stil has the micro-usb port sticking proud? You would need to make the cse slightly wider than the PCB, which might actually be a problem as that side of my design is up against the audio plugs as it is. Not hard against, but you might want to check things.
The micro-usb is only used to flash the firmware. And any update firmware, perhaps, unless Rob or someone else makes an Amiga utility for it.
I had no luck with Paulanet with thewire13. PaulaNet doesn't show up correctly under OS1.3, and i think there is no OS1.3 driver for it. The guy coding thewire1.3 did release a plipbox driver for it though, and that does work for me.
I'm fine with you sharing. I can't speak on behalf of Rob, of course :)
Yeah, i see... a one piece design would make things more difficult,
so i will go with top and bottom shell, clipped together somehow...
A semi transparent top could allow the LEDs to shine through...
And with two parts i can make the USB accessible from the outside.
No need to open the case for new firmware!
It'd be nice if PaulaNet could work with thewire1.3!
Cause it would be a perfect combination for an A500!
Thanks for the allowance!
Will mention that that the board is based on your design! 👍🏼
If you are going to use a 1-piece case with my redesign, be aware the micro-usb port of the Pico 2 W sits slightly proud of the main PCB, as it does of it's own PCB. The complete PCB has to be slid sideways into the case at an angle, to feed the micro-usb into the hole in the side of the case. Your PCB stil has the micro-usb port sticking proud? You would need to make the cse slightly wider than the PCB, which might actually be a problem as that side of my design is up against the audio plugs as it is. Not hard against, but you might want to check things.
The micro-usb is only used to flash the firmware. And any update firmware, perhaps, unless Rob or someone else makes an Amiga utility for it.
I had no luck with Paulanet with thewire13. PaulaNet doesn't show up correctly under OS1.3, and i think there is no OS1.3 driver for it. The guy coding thewire1.3 did release a plipbox driver for it though, and that does work for me.
I'm fine with you sharing. I can't speak on behalf of Rob, of course :)
The author of thewire13 did contact me but haven’t heard anything. I had the idea of bundling it in the disk images Getting the actual driver working on 1.3 wouldn’t be hard, I think I just opened some libraries with versions for KS2+ as at the time there was no 1.3 tcp stack.
The only issue is the config tool as that would need rebuilding, however a command line tool would be easy to make
Fair point, that would be a failing of the design. I'm getting about 35kB/s rather than Rob's 43. My home wifi isn't perfect. Using a mobile hotspot might help as well, i should test that.
I wonder if it's possible to setup a small external antenna. Still within the housing, but connected to the Pico 2 W
I think i should free up the space above the antenna. Is it sufficient to remove the parts and traces + groundplane or is it better to make an opening in the board?
I have updated the PCB design slightly, removing the ground plane from the keepout area around the Pico 2 W wifi module. There are still a couple of traces there, but given the overall PCB size would have to enlarge to move them, and the fact my first rev performed at at least 3/4 the speed of Rob's original even on a slightly dicky wifi connection, i'm happy enough to put this forward as rev 2.
The zip with the new PCB is in the same post as the old one, above.
I'm also going to look at designing another PCB using the TXS0108E level-shifters mentioned in the OP. I am happy enough with the 4k internal pullups on those IC's when active.
The author of thewire13 did contact me but haven’t heard anything. I had the idea of bundling it in the disk images Getting the actual driver working on 1.3 wouldn’t be hard, I think I just opened some libraries with versions for KS2+ as at the time there was no 1.3 tcp stack. The only issue is the config tool as that would need rebuilding, however a command line tool would be easy to make
Done some testing today of both the original version and Buttersoft paulanet passthru V2
internal gotek + External floppy drive + paulanet on external floppy pass thru - all three drives works
internal drive + buttersoft pass thru with external floppy connected on it, all three drives work.
internal drive + buttersoft + original paulanet connected on the passthru - only one of the paulanet show up ( not a problem i just figured id test it). it does work tho.
internal drive + external floppy + paulanet on external floppy pass thru works
It took a long time, but the PaulaNET short board works now.
It's not as fast as expected. Will have to find the flaw.
I think i should do a revision with a cut out pcb for the WiFi signals!
S1 switch may be bridged as well if desired. It turns only the Pico 2 W on and off, not anything plugged into the back of paulanet. I canot remember where i bought these, but if anyone finds ones like the pic below on aliexpress let me know.
Activity
MrSVCD commentedon Jun 12, 2026
D1 is a ESD8351XV2T1G https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/onsemi/ESD8351XV2T1G/5257579
And I have no idea why it is a zener as shown on the schematic, it seems to work like a normal diode.
explanation for the diode:
If you plan on have dual power supplies, usb and floppy port in this case, you can join them with two diodes. The USB diode is already on the pico/pico 2 so it makes sense that you also place one in the path of the power from the Amiga so no back feed can happen.
butterrsoft commentedon Jun 26, 2026
Rgr, thanks. Any chance you could upload builds of the paulanet.device file and the Amiga software? I'm not the best at compiling stuff...
MrSVCD commentedon Jun 26, 2026
Releases are here: https://github.com/RobSmithDev/PaulaNET/releases
butterrsoft commentedon Jun 26, 2026
OMG i'm an idiot. You just build the hardware, flash the pico and load WB3.1 and it shows up as the Paulanet "disk" on the workbench screen, which you can just open. Oops! And thank you :)
butterrsoft commentedon Jun 27, 2026
Ok, some feedback, just in case...
My redesigned PCB/enclosure seems to work fine with Roadshow. Not at first tho - i put the
PaulaNET.devicefile intodevs/networks, and altered my plipbox config indev/netinterfaces, renamed to paulanet and pointing toPaulaNET.device, butaddnetinterface paulanetfailed, reporting an input/output error. TBH i'm not sure if i went back and put capitals in the right places, or if using amitestkit and running every drive test on paulanet as DF1 helped (it's set as write protected, nice touch!) but after that the addnetinterface command worked. Must have blown the dust off the level-shifters, lol.My god this thing is fast! It's immediately like 10x faster than my plipbox. Would love to see an OS1.3 device file, though i haven't tested the present one with thewire1.3 TCP/IP stack yet. Any objection to my requesting Stumpi look into that, if needed?
My PCB design also works fine with DF2 plugged into it's passthrough port, with or without external power, where the original doesn't do that, from the look of it :) Happy to share my files, of course, if anyone is interested.
MrSVCD commentedon Jun 27, 2026
Care to share your design?
butterrsoft commentedon Jun 28, 2026
Happy to :)
EDIT: i have added the v2 archive, which has updated gerber files for the PCB layout, removing the ground plane from the main PCB in the keepout area around the Pico 2 W's wifi module. This may help get slightly faster speeds. Other files in the archive are unchanged.
Files in the archive are:
There are a few build notes on the schematic:
It's a very good idea to take a look at all the files and work out how you are going to build first. I like fitting bits together into the smallest package i can, but if you do things in the wrong order you will get into trouble.
My design is not set up to be built by a PCB house, sadly. You will need to solder everything yourself, i fear.
Paulanet-alt.zip
Paulanet-alt-v2.zip
https://i.imgur.com/SuPp9TT.jpeg
Manger74 commentedon Jul 5, 2026
@butterrsoft
Had the same idea, to rotate the PiPico and make the board shorter...
I like how you've soldered the PiPico to the backside!
Very cool!
Manger74 commentedon Jul 5, 2026
@butterrsoft
If i'd like to make it as simple as possible, i could go without the following parts?
butterrsoft commentedon Jul 5, 2026
Yes, you can go without the parts you list, except the Zener diode. That one's part of Rob's design, and will stop any feedback from the Pico's 5V rail to the Amiga. TBH you don't need a Zener, i used an MBR230 in SOD123 package. And "U22" is actually a 22uF 0805 capacitor, but it can be ignored without the USB socket.
You will need to bridge pins 1 and 2 of the missing S1 switch tho, or no power. But the rest can simply be left off. And I would still advise kapton taping the exposed copper points before soldering the Pico 2 W on. If you are adjusting the design for single-ended, you would gain even more space.
I did find the fit between the DB23 pins quite tight, and you don't want to damage the traces under there. I slotted the other edge of the board between the relevant pins, and levered them apart slightly. Most PCB houses deliver several boards, so you could use an extra one to do that, and solder to a fresh one. Or just order the boards at 1.2mm thick, rather than 1.6mm.
Keen to hear how you get on :)
Manger74 commentedon Jul 9, 2026
@butterrsoft
Many thanks for your feedback and the valuable clues!
I'm working on preparing the gerber files & BOM for JLCPCB...
I'm looking forward to place an order!
PaulaNet has really nice features over the PlipBox.
It uses DMA and it's powered by the Amiga!
Love it!
Were you successful with thewire1.3?
I'd like to use it with my A500...
The micro USB of the PiPico is only used to flash the firmware?
So it's not necessary to expose the receptacle to the outside of the casing? I'm thinking of a one piece casing, where the PCB would slide in...
Manger74 commentedon Jul 9, 2026
@RobSmithDev
@butterrsoft
May i put this "Short Board" as "PaulaNet compatible hardware" on my Github when it's ready and tested?
butterrsoft commentedon Jul 9, 2026
If you are going to use a 1-piece case with my redesign, be aware the micro-usb port of the Pico 2 W sits slightly proud of the main PCB, as it does of it's own PCB. The complete PCB has to be slid sideways into the case at an angle, to feed the micro-usb into the hole in the side of the case. Your PCB stil has the micro-usb port sticking proud? You would need to make the cse slightly wider than the PCB, which might actually be a problem as that side of my design is up against the audio plugs as it is. Not hard against, but you might want to check things.
The micro-usb is only used to flash the firmware. And any update firmware, perhaps, unless Rob or someone else makes an Amiga utility for it.
I had no luck with Paulanet with thewire13. PaulaNet doesn't show up correctly under OS1.3, and i think there is no OS1.3 driver for it. The guy coding thewire1.3 did release a plipbox driver for it though, and that does work for me.
I'm fine with you sharing. I can't speak on behalf of Rob, of course :)
Manger74 commentedon Jul 9, 2026
Yeah, i see... a one piece design would make things more difficult,
so i will go with top and bottom shell, clipped together somehow...
A semi transparent top could allow the LEDs to shine through...
And with two parts i can make the USB accessible from the outside.
No need to open the case for new firmware!
It'd be nice if PaulaNet could work with thewire1.3!
Cause it would be a perfect combination for an A500!
Thanks for the allowance!
Will mention that that the board is based on your design! 👍🏼
RobSmithDev commentedon Jul 9, 2026
Sure - as long as you have links back here no problem
RobSmithDev commentedon Jul 9, 2026
The author of thewire13 did contact me but haven’t heard anything. I had the idea of bundling it in the disk images Getting the actual driver working on 1.3 wouldn’t be hard, I think I just opened some libraries with versions for KS2+ as at the time there was no 1.3 tcp stack.
The only issue is the config tool as that would need rebuilding, however a command line tool would be easy to make
MrSVCD commentedon Jul 9, 2026
Just something I noticed in the alternative PCB versions is that the Wi-Fi antenna is blocked by copper on the PCB unlike Robs version. This does not make the Wi-Fi not work but the range is decreased. In the Pico 1W and 2W data-sheet they talk about a keep out area.
https://pip.raspberrypi.com/categories/686-raspberry-pi-pico-w
https://pip.raspberrypi.com/categories/1088-raspberry-pi-pico-2-w
search for
2.2.1. Keep-out areato find it in both data-sheets.butterrsoft commentedon Jul 9, 2026
Fair point, that would be a failing of the design. I'm getting about 35kB/s rather than Rob's 43. My home wifi isn't perfect. Using a mobile hotspot might help as well, i should test that.
I wonder if it's possible to setup a small external antenna. Still within the housing, but connected to the Pico 2 W
MrSVCD commentedon Jul 10, 2026
An external antenna is possible but there is no prepared way for it so it will be complicated.
Manger74 commentedon Jul 13, 2026
Many thanks Rob & Butterrsoft!
https://github.com/Manger74/PaulaNet-Short-Board.git
I think i should free up the space above the antenna. Is it sufficient to remove the parts and traces + groundplane or is it better to make an opening in the board?
butterrsoft commentedon Jul 20, 2026
I have updated the PCB design slightly, removing the ground plane from the keepout area around the Pico 2 W wifi module. There are still a couple of traces there, but given the overall PCB size would have to enlarge to move them, and the fact my first rev performed at at least 3/4 the speed of Rob's original even on a slightly dicky wifi connection, i'm happy enough to put this forward as rev 2.
The zip with the new PCB is in the same post as the old one, above.
I'm also going to look at designing another PCB using the TXS0108E level-shifters mentioned in the OP. I am happy enough with the 4k internal pullups on those IC's when active.
butterrsoft commentedon Jul 20, 2026
@RobSmithDev
He's released an SDK for Thewire13 now - https://aminet.net/package/comm/tcp/thewire13-sana2-sdk
I am no coder though, and would have no idea where to start. I'm hoping someone more talented, such as yourself, will rise to the occasion ;)
Retrofletch commentedon Oct 8, 2026
Done some testing today of both the original version and Buttersoft paulanet passthru V2
internal gotek + External floppy drive + paulanet on external floppy pass thru - all three drives works
internal drive + buttersoft pass thru with external floppy connected on it, all three drives work.
internal drive + buttersoft + original paulanet connected on the passthru - only one of the paulanet show up ( not a problem i just figured id test it). it does work tho.
internal drive + external floppy + paulanet on external floppy pass thru works
The only issue i could find was it does not work with a "external gotek adapter" like this one :https://github.com/RetroNynjah/Amiga-External-Floppy-Adapter
it just says status :refreshing and then nothing.
but that might be a issue with the adapter and how its designed obviously.
other than that all combinations worked.
great job!
Manger74 commentedon Oct 12, 2026
It took a long time, but the PaulaNET short board works now.
It's not as fast as expected. Will have to find the flaw.
I think i should do a revision with a cut out pcb for the WiFi signals!
https://github.com/Manger74/PaulaNet-Short-Board/
jingsno commentedon Oct 25, 2026
@butterrsoft
I think the switch used, is this one (BSI-10H)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005012826861644.html
butterrsoft commentedon Oct 26, 2026